Injuries, fatigue and new highs

 

This week has been an interesting one and exhausting af. I already started the week quite low on spoons because I haven’t had enough rest at the weekends for the last couple of weeks. Monday, I had work and then went climbing as I had signed up to a coaching session. I found it really useful and after, with the help of some friendly gym people got pretty far up a v3-4 that is soooo not me. Crimpy and overhanging. I blame the attempts on that problem for the state my left hand is in. I also completed a V3-4 which I had literally just been misreading the pervious week! (again friendly people are useful). I also did a few of the comp problems that looked challenging but doable in no more than 3 attempts. It was nice to see that there was a range of problems at a level that I could do in a comp setting tbh. Seeing as I wimped out of the comp for that reason.

So we come to Tuesday when I find all the tendons are sore. In both hands. I’d been struggling a little with my right hand but nothing major and no issues with climbing just tendons overreacting cause hypermobility puts more strain on them. But such is life, hey? We had four hours of no work to do and I legit went crazy and signed up to paranationals. Although I’m not a route climber by discipline anymore and find bouldering way more fun and social despite being more of a challenge I want to get myself back into competing and a) I’m a paraclimber b) I definitely feel more secure competing on a top rope.

Wednesday was a climbing day (and a work day but nothing of interest occurred). Climbing was good and despite my best intentions to not put too much pressure through my fingers I may have but didn’t make the situation any worse and did a V3 I couldn’t do the first move of a month ago in two parts, completed another V3-4 and flashed a V2-3 antistyle comp problem. So it was worth it.

Thursday I climbed again and really did my fingers in on some two finger pockets on a 6b+ I didn’t quite manage. But that’s okay. I couldn’t try it more than once because of my fingers but I know I have it in me. Shame I don’t go to that wall often enough! I think It’ll be a couple of weeks now until my next visit.

The middle left hand finger got destroyed a little more on Friday when I was putting my jeans on. Yes putting my jeans on. I had a rheumatology appointment and H-eds was mentioned for the first time and there was talk about referring me to a fibro clinic. Also had another three viles of blood drawn and was left not feeling at all well and with no head in the game at work but some days that’s how it is. We win some and lose some. I went home after work, rested and ordered wagas cause I was just so dizzy and also deserved it.

Saturday, I worked on an application and rested before I went climbing and despite only intending on 4s and 5s ended up flashing a 6b and 6b+ and finishing off a v steep and elongated 6a+ (I can confirm when the auto belay lowered me I was on the floor. It was exhausting). I also tried a couple of 6cs and got pretty far. One I tried to project a little and got most of the moves down but was just too weak to send. The other I didn’t want to try twice as it was crimpy and although slabby I was conscious of the stress on my fingers. But 6c I will get you again.

Then I got home and realised my tendon was a little more of a mess. So now we are buddy taped and hopefully all will be good by Wednesday (my next climb). My elbow has also been playing up again as I have a loose piece of bone or something in it and injuring it by falling a few weeks ago aggravated that so would rather not one hand climb. Also getting lots of rest as I can barely stand without almost passing out today!

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